Carignan — rebellious grape

Carignan originates from Aragon in northeastern Spain and established itself in Languedoc during Roman times. During the 20th century's great production expansion, it was planted across southern France for a single purpose: volume. The grape is productive, hardy and gives high yields — but quality suffered. In the 1990s, EU subsidies halved the planted area, and the old vines were largely left alone.

It was the natural wine generation's producers who recognised what these abandoned old vines could actually give. A gobelet Carignan of 65, 80 or 100 years produces a fraction of what a young vine gives — but what it produces is concentrated, mineral and complex. The roots go deep into schist slopes and limestone, grapes concentrate naturally and hand harvesting becomes necessary.

The terroir varies markedly within Languedoc. In Faugères, black schist gives wines with iron minerality and depth. In Saint-Chinian, schist meets limestone — the wines become softer and more fruit-driven. In Haute Vallée de l'Orb at 300 metres altitude, gneiss and granite give a completely different freshness and acid structure.